Fashioning Resilience Amidst Adversity: Ukrainian Designers at London Fashion Week
A Ukrainian fashion designer, Nadya Dzyak, remains resolute in her commitment to work regardless of circumstances. She recently unveiled her latest collection at London Fashion Week (LFW) as part of the 'Ukrainian Fashion Week' showcase. This marks the second season of Ukrainian Fashion Week's presence in London, necessitated by the cancellation of the traditional Kyiv-based event due to the ongoing Russian invasion.
The show took place on LFW's final day, carrying a poignant message, "Creating collections is our resistance to war." It emphasized that fashion serves as a powerful embodiment of strength and resilience during tumultuous times.
In an interview with the PA news agency backstage, Dzyak stated, "No matter what, we work. We'll persevere because it's not just our livelihood; it's our fight to craft new pieces." Her determination reflects the indomitable spirit of the Ukrainian fashion industry amidst adversity.
In 2008, Dzyak established her eponymous brand, and her spring/summer 2024 collection burst forth with vibrant hues, featuring sheer dresses adorned with cascades of ruffles and frills. Her creative muse was the Ukrainian artist Polina Raiko, a prominent figure in the naïve and folk art movement who passed away in 2004. Tragically, Raiko's museum house in Oleshky succumbed to flooding following the Russian destruction of the Kakhovka Dam earlier this year.
Dzyak found inspiration in Raiko's wall drawings within the museum, likening her design process to "painting with ruffles." This fusion of artistry and fashion paid homage to the spirit of a creative visionary whose legacy endures through Dzyak's remarkable work.
Dzyak took a unique approach by infusing unconventional denim styles with her vivid palette. This transformation took place right on her parents' porch, where her father played a crucial role. "My father assisted in the meticulous hand-dyeing of the garments, followed by sun-drying. There was something almost ritualistic, something archaic in this process," she mused in a statement.
This creative journey prompted deep contemplation about carrying forward the metaphysical aspects of their heritage into daily life, preserving traditions, and the enduring love between parents and their children. It's a testament to the power of creativity and family bonds in shaping the future.
Throughout this collection, the infusion of bright colours encapsulates the designer's vision of beauty, optimism, and hope. Unconventional denim pieces were meticulously dyed and sun-dried on her parents' porch, with her father's assistance playing a vital role in this transformative process. Reflecting on this experience, Dzyak contemplated the enduring resonance of heritage in daily life, traditions, and the profound love between generations. It's a testament to the enduring power of creativity and familial bonds in shaping the future.
Speaking backstage, Reva acknowledged the prevailing difficulties, saying, "It's a very difficult situation in our country - it's terrible. [But] we have to continue our jobs. We have to live… But it's terrible when the rockets come in." Her collection masterfully blended masculine tailoring with feminine silhouettes. Notably, it featured exquisite silver pendants resembling archaeological artifacts, evoking a sense of modern excavation and discovery.
During the show, Kseniaschnaider unveiled the second drop of its collaboration with Adidas Originals. The collection included football tops adorned with eye-catching geometric patterns and a midi-length dress proudly displaying Ukraine's iconic yellow, white, and blue colours. This collaboration signifies the brand's fusion of fashion, sustainability, and national pride.
Reva underscored the significance of showcasing Ukrainian fashion to the world, emphasizing the importance of preserving and sharing their rich cultural heritage. She expressed, "We have a compelling narrative and a resilient community in Ukraine, and it is our duty to continue sharing our unique story."
Their collective statement through fashion transcends borders, echoing the resilience and creativity of Ukraine's fashion industry. It's a testament to their commitment to preserving their culture and identity on the global stage, leaving a lasting impression on audiences worldwide.
